Katie pinch me, *We’re in BURMA!!!* It was fascinating to see the landscape as we came in for landing in Yangon. It was so different compared to the landscape we had seen in America or Germany. Everything seemed to be rice fields except for small clusters of trees where we assumed houses existed. We saw one pagoda, then realized the countryside was scattered with them- all painted gold and shining in the sun. None of the roads were paved and as we landed we almost wondered if the runway itself was even paved. (then realized it had to be=) We realized later too that we must not have been able to see the city from our side of the plane. The airport itself was much smaller compared to any we had flown through yet, and there were only a few airplanes outside.
It’s so crazy being in such a strange place. I wanted to take everything in when we got here but I was falling asleep as we rode through the city to our hotel. It’s crazy how it’s a city just like at home but so vastly different. It’s also strange being the only “different people” –we get so used to our comfort zones now suddenly we’re on the outside.
We visited the Schwe Dagon Pagoda last night after checking into our hotel. Evidently this is the largest pagoda in Burma and one of the most sacred to the Buddhists- there is said to be eight of the Buddha’s hairs housed inside the largest “stupa.” The entire pagoda was extremel
y ornate, with many stupas surrounding the main one, statues of dragons (?), and Buddhas. There were many people, praying, chanting, and bowing before various Buddhas, and each statue had a ring of neon flas
hing lights behind its head. I found it all interesting but was really too tired to take much in- I fell asleep sitting up and waiting for the rest of the group, which all of you who know me well know this has never happened. Ever. I can’t even nap if I try….
to the Delta
We left the hotel this morning on a bus and headed out of Yangon to the Delta region. Downtown Yangon is so fascinating- so many people on the street and much activity in the marketplace areas. T
he city itself is very much dilapidated- the buildings mildewed and in disrepair. We wondered if the mildew is because of the rainy season or simply because of lack of maintenance. Road etiquette is much different from in America- the horn is used frequently and more as a mode of notification than of anger. Anyone using their horn like this in America would be met with many obscene gestures I’m sure. Public transportation seems to be via covered pickup truck and a few buses- all of which are crammed full with people hanging off of the back.
We embark on our diet of rice & Burmanized Chinese
Lunch was in a small village in a restaurant that we described as “Burmanized Chinese.” We ate plenty of this throughout the trip because as Moe told us, most food is cooked in the morning and left to sit all day long, but Chinese is cooked on the spot so it’s much safer for us Americans to eat. Burmese Chinese is not the same as American Chinese by any means, but still very tasty. I still have not quite figured out the difference between this and typical Burmese cuisine- a bowl of rice and multiple “main dishes” to top the rice, usually consisting of a kind of sauce with various meats and/or vegetables. Every meal also included a side of soup. I found it easier to renounce my vegetarianism fo
r the bulk of the trip, which I figured was a small price to pay in order to experience the variety of food that was offered. My main food adventure for this particular meal involved trying squid- not that I was impressed, but at least I can say I ate it=)

"Everybody's got a water buffalo, mine is fast & yours is slow, where'd we get 'em, I don't know but everybody's got a water buffalo"
It’s amazing how we spent seven hours on a cramped bus today and I wasn’t bored even for a minute. It was fascinating just looking out the window. The scenery was much the same the entire way but it’s so different from our norm. Once we left the city, the roads were mostly unpaved- thought e
ven when they were, they were just as bumpy due to potholes. There was much water- houses were built elevated and there were narrow footbridges from the road to the house. There were rice fields and coconut palms and banana trees and we saw duck farms and water buffalo. (everyone really does have a water buffalo here!=) There was also a great number of dogs living in the towns and countryside, but they always looked the same- large, yellow, and pointy ears.
Setting sail
In the town of Bogalay, we traded our bus for a boat, and set off on the remainder of the day’s journey. I have always loved the water and was reminded of this when we boarded the boat, which we had to do using a narrow plank. The boat was open on the front and had a roof over the rest. Our departure was a cause of much excitement in the town- I guess a group of fifteen white people does stand out in these places. Twenty minutes after leaving Bogalay, we stopped at a small hut for a few minutes- I was still writing but Katie suddenly put her hand on my knee- I looked up and noticed three young boys standing on the embankment. Each had a gun in hand. Nobody seemed concerned about this and I never did find out why they had possession of such weapons, whether they were even real, (which they looked so) or whether they were loaded. Nevertheless, we set off again and I did not see anything of the sort for the rest of the trip.

I love cruising the river in the open air. It reminds me of summer days at home, and there are few more beautiful sights than sunlight glitter on water. The marshes look much the same, which I find strange considering the other flora is so vastly different. I would love to know if the same plants here are the ones growing in the marshes at home.
We stopped at a small village for dinner, which was absolutely amazing! The village was beautiful and so calm in the waterfront sunset. This town lost 140 people in the 2008 Cyclone Nargis- sometimes entire families. They fed us in the school- fried fish, rice cakes, (? –a lot like Cheetos, but much healthier I’m sure and without t
he cheese- I found them very tasty!) cookies, and coffee. They were so gracious and eager to share. Because they were expecting us at noon, school was closed today, and we felt bad that it was now 5:00. After eating, we talked with the village leaders via Moe acting as a translator. The women sat at the back of the room and looked on without participating. My favorite part was when we left- they all lined up on the dock and waved.
When we reached our final destination, we had to walk one kilometer in the dark from the boat to the village where we are staying tonight. I am interested to see it in the daytime. I think we were walking by an irrigation ditch and maybe a field? The ground under our feet was dry, cracked, and difficult to navigate. We finally reached the village of Thar Pyan Gyi, which
is home to 300 people. There is a church in this town and we are staying in the community center beside it- sleeping on mats and under mosquito netting. They fed us yet another dinner when we arrived. A random thought strikes me as I am eating- I know so many people at home who have traveled outside the U.S. but I have encountered a scant few groups from outside who visit us. We have so many resources by which to do this.
“only education will be the solution to the poverty”
It is after dinner and we are meeting with members of Thar Pyan Gyi in their church. Most of us are nodding off even though we feel awful for appearing sleepy. I wish I was more awake for this. I was to take it all in. This is so exciting!!!
I am excited to see there are women included in the town leadership here. I wonder how this applies to surrounding villages.
The main issues that we discuss involve education, water quality, and health issues. Education is their main priority- the town provides a nursery school and a middle school- their school year begins in May, which is one month earlier than most schools in Burma, but they schedule school around the students. Schooling here only goes through 10 (or 11th?) grade, then students must be sent to Bogalay to finish- this can cost $700-$800 per year, which is more than the village can afford. I cannot tell whether any students actually get to go, but I get the feeling the majority probably do not. One quote I pick up is “only education will be a solution to the poverty.” It reminds me of the BC education department’s motto- a quote from Epictetus which states “only the educated are free.” I am interested to find this correlation of values, one which I feel strongly toward myself.
The town can handle minor health issues, which involve seasonal ailments for the children as well as malnutrition. The community center in which we are staying seems to serve as the clinic because there are a few medical supplies there.
The pastor and his wife seem like a wonderful couple. The wife is the town’s only nurse, teaches the nursery school, and is part of the village women’s group. She is obviously a leader but exudes a calm countenance. Her body language shows that she is comfortable with herself yet it is obvious that she cares for people. Her role in this village intrigues me and I would love to talk to her, but there is the language barrier.